
I was looking at satellites view of the area around Arusha, trying to find the exact village where we will be building the school and I saw a large patch of red ground. Zooming in I started seeing funny circles on the ground and there they were, the Maasai villages! I kind of thought they existed only in vernacular architecture books, but there are plenty of them scattered around this area...
To be more precise one should call them permanent homesteads, in the Maa language enkang. They are built on high ground and people would only live there part of the year, spending the other part in temporary settlements in the plains. Now they tend to live there all the time, or move directly to the town and cities.
The smallest of the three homesteads in this photo has a diameter of 50 m. The dark line around it is a fence of thorny plants used to keep in the cattle and keep out predators. The Encyclopedia of Vernacular Architecture (Paul Olivier) says that the houses are oval, but here they look pretty circular, don’t they? To be verified on site.
When a girl marries, at about 14 years of age, she builds her own house with the help of other women in the homestead. The house remains her property and no one can enter it without her permission, not even the husband. Does that mean that women have a rather strong role in Maasai society? If I look at the interior of the house, something tells me that it is probably not so.
To be more precise one should call them permanent homesteads, in the Maa language enkang. They are built on high ground and people would only live there part of the year, spending the other part in temporary settlements in the plains. Now they tend to live there all the time, or move directly to the town and cities.
The smallest of the three homesteads in this photo has a diameter of 50 m. The dark line around it is a fence of thorny plants used to keep in the cattle and keep out predators. The Encyclopedia of Vernacular Architecture (Paul Olivier) says that the houses are oval, but here they look pretty circular, don’t they? To be verified on site.
When a girl marries, at about 14 years of age, she builds her own house with the help of other women in the homestead. The house remains her property and no one can enter it without her permission, not even the husband. Does that mean that women have a rather strong role in Maasai society? If I look at the interior of the house, something tells me that it is probably not so.

In the plan you can see that there is a man’s bed and a woman’s bed. Well, first of all the man’s bed is much larger, second here it is not said, but the children sleep with the mother. So a smaller bed for maybe 4-5 people... Plus, the man has one bed in each of his wives’ houses.
Yes, they say it is a patriarchal society. We will see.
Yes, they say it is a patriarchal society. We will see.
Great post, Silvia. I don't know why I did not get a notice of it at the time. ???
ReplyDeleteSo the woman has ownership and control over this house, yet such a small bed. Is the "man's bed" REALLY only for him? Wouldn't she join him in a conjugal bed when he stays with her? I mean, REALLY!?? So, it's really for two, right?
Hey Janet!
ReplyDeleteYes, it would make sense… but, after having actually visited a couple of Maasai huts I have the impression that the reality (as usual) is more fluid than what the study suggests.
First of all I found out that the plan I showed is that of a temporary hut, a type of hut that is not very much in use anymore. Today the Maasai seem to always live in the circular huts shown in the satellite photo.
There I found that the definition of the internal space can vary.
Entrances can be tunnel-like or through rectangular doors, cattle can have a dedicated space or no space at all. For the beds, well those I have seen are all the same size; no difference between women and men, admitting that one of them is really for the man...
In general it seemed that men where not very welcome, once they said that men are not even allowed in. I guess they mean it in a symbolic way; the man must sleep somewhere...
So I am not really sure.
Anyway, what was not written in books, is the amazing feeling of being inside these huts.
As I had realized during our trip to Central Asia and our stay in the yurt, the circular space actually does something to our perceptions: it simply feels so good. The surfaces, already very organic (mud, wood, and leather), are made even softer by the half-light. Huts have no real window, and this to keep the smoke of the fire in, and the insects out. Nevertheless, Maasai women manage to make this a pleasant thing, as they carefully choose fire wood that smells good, a bit like incense.